Starting problems here can occur if the circuit that reads the smart key or key fob is faulty and doesn't recognize or transmit the proper signal back to the computer. The same thing can happen if the smart key or key fob is defective or damaged. On some applications, the anti-theft system can be confused if there are more than one smart key on the key ring and the system is reading the wrong key.
The ignition switch is also used to lock the steering wheel when the key is removed. This is also to reduce auto theft. On vehicles with automatic transmissions, there is also a "shift interlock" solenoid that locks the transmission linkage so the transmission cannot be shifted out of Park.
Problems with the column lock such as binding may prevent the ignition switch from turning when the key is inserted, or it may prevent the key from being removed when you turn the engine off. Problems with the shift interlock solenoid may prevent the transmission from being shifted out of Park. The cause may be a bad solenoid, an electrical fault between the ignition switch circuit and the interlock solenoid, or binding in the shift interlock linkage.
Try jiggling the steering wheel back and forth. The steering column may be binding because one of the front wheels is turned at an angle against a curb. This puts a load on the steering linkage, which may be enough to bind the column lock and ignition switch. A worn key or the wrong key can prevent the ignition switch from turning.
If you have a spare key, try the spare key in the ignition switch to see if it works. If the spare key works, the problem is not a bad ignition switch but a bad key.
Throw the old key away and get a new copy made of the spare key. If you have no spare key, a lock smith may be able to make you a new key using a key code from the owner's manual or auto maker.
If that is not an option, the key cylinder in the ignition switch will have to be replaced along with a new set of keys. If the ignition switch is binding hard to turn in either direction , lubricating the switch may help. Use a nonconductive lubricant such as dielectric silicon grease or aerosol electronics cleaner. If nothing happens when you turn the ignition switch to the start position, the problem may be a bad ignition switch, or it may be a fault in the starting circuit.
First, do the instrument panel warning lights come on when the key is turned to the ON position? No warning lights or other signs of electrical activity could indicate a dead battery or that the battery cables are loose or corroded. Try turning on the headlights. No lights? Then you have a battery or battery connection problem.
If the headlights work, the problem is not the battery but an electrical fault in the ignition switch, ignition switch circuit wiring or fuse , or a problem in the starting circuit bad relay, solenoid, wiring or starter. The problem here is probably an anti-theft fault , or a fault in the fuel pump circuit, ignition circuit or engine computer. If the anti-theft light is flashing, the computer is NOT recognizing the key or key fob and is preventing the engine from starting.
This could be due to a bad receiver in the ignition switch that reads the key, a damaged smart key or key fob, or a wiring fault between the switch and computer. On some vehicles, reprogramming the computer may be required so the computer will correctly recognize the smart key or key fob.
You can't circumvent an anti-theft system because it is hard wired into the computer. If the anti-theft light is NOT flashing when you attempt to start the engine, and the engine is cranking normally, the computer is recognizing the key but the engine may not be starting because it is not getting fuel or spark.
Check the fuel gauge to make sure it is not on empty. Got fuel? Listen for the fuel pump to buzz when the key is first turned on. No buzz means a fault in the fuel pump, pump relay or pump wiring. The neutral safety switch for an automatic transmission is located inside the transmission case or in the linkage that allows the vehicle to shift gears.
This switch prevents you from starting the engine when the transmission is in any gear other than Park or Neutral. Manual transmissions have a similar safety device that is commonly located on the clutch pedal. This ensures that a manual transmission vehicle can't be started unless the clutch pedal is depressed.
Once triggered, the neutral safety switch allows the electrical current to cycle from the ignition switch to the engine starter and ignition system which activates the ignition process. This is done to prevent damage to the starter motor and the transmission, but most importantly to reduce potential accidents.
When the neutral safety switch or one of the components that connects the switch to ancillary support systems that operate the device is damaged, there are a few warning signals or symptoms that may indicate a problem exists.
Noted below are a few of these warning signs that should alert you to contact a local ASE certified mechanic to inspect and replace the neutral safety switch if needed. When the driver turns the ignition switch and the automatic transmission is in park, or the manual transmission is in neutral and the clutch pedal is engaged, the car should trigger the starter to engage.
However, if they turn the key under these circumstances and the vehicle does not crank over , it may be caused by a faulty neutral safety switch inside the transmission or clutch pedal. Since this symptom may also be attributed to battery issues , broken starters , or other component failures, a certified mechanic will need to inspect this in person to determine the correct course of action.
On the opposite side of the spectrum, when the vehicle cranks over when the transmission in in park but not neutral, it's typically due to a faulty neutral safety switch.
In this case, the switch is either experiencing an internal component failure where it is activating in one gear but not the other. It may also be due to an electrical failure or that the switch is loose and needs to be adjusted.
A certified mechanic can repair this issue if found early enough. If the engine will not crank at all , it's typical of a neutral safety switch that is experiencing electrical issues. In this case, no power is flowing through the neutral safety switch to the starter relay.
This prevents the starter motor from cranking the engine. This symptom indicates a completely open electrical circuit inside the neutral safety switch which may be due to a faulty relay, blown fuse , or electrical problem with the switch itself.
If the issue is with the switch, it will need to be replaced. Being able to crank the engine even when it is already running and the transmission is in gear is a sign of a neutral safety switch that has a short circuit internally.
When this occurs, it's a serious safety hazard, as essentially it's as if there is no neutral safety switch installed on your vehicle. In this case, the safety switch must be replaced as soon as possible to avoid serious accidents or injuries. Mooseman Master Blaster Moderator. When there is an actual issue with power to the tranny, it will throw more than 2 codes. Looks more like a localized issue with either the wiring, the connector or the solenoids inside. Not likely a mechanical issue with the tranny itself.
Villa Newbie. Click to expand Mooseman said:. He replaced the ignition switch. Chickenhawk Hobbyist. Best to start a new thread, with your symptoms and codes. Have you load-tested your battery? Key stuck is usually a battery problem. These platforms are heavily dependant on a good battery. This needs it's own thread.
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